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Mt. Mitchell State Park and the Black Mountains

south toe river
Black Mountains Photo Tour

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Named for the dark evergreen forests of spruce and fir that cover its peaks, the Black Mountain Range is the highest east of the Rockies. Running roughly north to south for 15 miles, these mountains have 18 peaks higher than 6300'.

Mt. Mitchell, the highest peak, is named for Dr. Elisha Mitchell, a professor of sciences at UNC-Chapel Hill who first suggested that the peak that bears his name was the highest in the range. Dr. Mitchell died at a waterfall on the western slope of the mountain while returning from one of many exploratory trips to western North Carolina.

The Blacks were logged extensively during the early years of this century. In fact, Mt. Mitchell State Park was created in 1915 to preserve the fir trees around the peak from the loggers' axe. Originally only 525 acres, the park expanded through several subsequent acquisitions until it reached its present size of 1469 acres in 1969.

Today, the summit is surrounded by the matchstick remnants of spruce and fir trees that have died in the last 25 years - all of them victims of a one-two punch delivered by an exotic insect and acid rain. The premature death of fir trees is not limited to the Black mountains. It is common above 5500 feet throughout the southern Appalachians. And there is increasing evidence that in some areas an unusually large number of high altitude hardwoods are dying prematurely as well.

Despite the ghostly tree skeletons on the summit, the Blacks are a great treat for outdoor enthusiasts. Rising more than 3000 feet above their base, these mountains offer some of the most strenuous hiking in the eastern U.S.. Colbert's Ridge Trail , for example, ascends from 2750' at the trailhead near the Carolina Hemlocks campground to 5700' at Deep Gap in only 3.7 miles. From there, if one heads south along the Black Mountain Crest Trail , Cattail Peak, (6675') is only a little over a mile away.

Almost as strenuous is the Mt. Mitchell Trail , a 5.6 mile trek that begins at 3200' at Black Mountain Campground and ends at the summit of Mt. Mitchell. About two miles from the campground trailhead a side trail to the left leads to Higgins Bald (see right above.) Above Higgins Bald the trail continues to switchback up the south face of the mountain through an oak - hickory forest (below 4500'), then ascends into a northern deciduous forest of birches and other high altitude hardwoods (4500' - 5500'), and finally enters the spruce and fir zone just after the trail passes the remnants of an old logging camp from the 1920s named Camp Alice.

At Camp Alice the Mt. Mitchell Trail intersects the Buncombe Horse Range Trail . At 15 miles, it is the longest in the Blacks. For most of its route, it follows old logging roads and the corridor of an abandoned rail tramway that took sightseers to the top of Mt. Mitchell in the early years of the 20th century. It passes through Maple Camp Bald (see right above) near its midpoint, a nice spot to have a sunny lunch on a clear cold day and gaze up at Big Tom and Cattail Peak.

The Black Mountain Crest Trail begins at the parking lot on top of Mt. Mitchell and heads north along the crest of the Black Mountain Range. During its 12 mile course it crosses Mt. Craig, Big Tom, Cattail Peak, and Potato Hill before descending to Deep Gap (5700.') Here the Colbert's Ridge Trail intersects from the right and descends 3.7 miles to Colbert's Creek Rd. near the Carolina Hemlocks campground. Continuing north the Crest Trail crosses Celo Knob before dropping to the trailhead at Bowlen's Creek Rd (3000').

For more info, see the links below or contact the USFS Toecane District Ranger at 828-682-6146. Forest Service campsites, such as Black Mountain Campground and Carolina Hemlocks, can be reserved online at ReserveUSA . Forest Service maps can be ordered at 800-660-0671. For the Black Mountains, order the South Toe River Trail Map.

Summary - The Black Mountains

Location: Yancey County, between Marion and Burnsville.

Access: Hwy 80 north from Marion or south from 19E near Burnsville; or the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Elevation: 2700' near the base to 6684' atop Mt. Mitchell.

Ownership: North Carolina owns the 1727 acres that comprise Mt. Mitchell State Park. The area east of the park and the crest of the Black Mountains is under USDA ownership as part of Pisgah National Forest.
 
Local Links

Mt. Mitchell State Park The park's official site.

Park Map - JPG format. Also available in PDF.

Carolina Connections. The Forest Service' guide to recreation in NC's national forests.

ReserveUSA - Reserve your Forest Servce campsite online.

National Forests in NC - Official website for the USFS in NC.

Friends of the Black and Great Craggy Mountains

Outdoor Paths Map Store - Just two minutes from I-40 in downtown Black Mountain. A must visit if you're a map geek or serious hiker.

North Carolina Waterfalls - Beautiful site.

WNC Trout - Guide to trout fishing in western North Carolina.

Appalachian Voices Devoted to protecting the native ecosystems of the Appalachians. Good page on air pollution.

The Southern Appalachians Highlands Conservancy - The local land trust for the Black Mountains and vicinity.

Spruce-Fir Ecosystem - An excellent introduction to the ecology of this high-altitude Appalachian ecosystem.



Books on the Blacks

Mount Mitchell & the Black Mountains: An Environmental History of the Highest Peaks in Eastern America - Released 2003. Rated 5 stars by Amazon Reviewers.

Cabins in the Laurel - by Muriel Earley Sheppard. A classic. Wonderful photos from the 20s and 30s, as well as compelling descriptions of life and people in the Toe River valley prior to WWII.

Our Southern Highlanders : A Narrative of Adventure in the Southern Appalachians and a Study of Life Among the Mountaineers - by Horace Kephart. Simply the best book on life in the Southern Appalachians prior to the First World War. Humorous and insightful. If I could have only one book on this region, this would be my choice.

A History of Mt. Mitchell and the Black Mountains - by S. Kent Schwarzkopf. An excellent short history. Scholarly yet easy to read.

Mount Mitchell : Its Railroad and Tollroad - by Jeff Lovelace. Fascinating photos from the early 20th century. The prose is a little bit awkward, but an interesting book nonetheless.

In the Spirit of Adventure: A 1915 Mount Mitchell Hiking Journal - by D. R. Beeson. Title is self-explanatory. Nice photos and good prose. An excellent book for the armchair hiker.

Mitchell's Peak: A Novel of Discovery - by Robert Dellinger. A fictional look at the life and work of Elisha Mitchell.

The Appalachian Forest, A Search For Roots and Renewal - by Chris Bolgiano. The best book I have read on the natural and human history of the southern Appalachians. Rated 4 1/2 stars by Amazon reviewers.

The Dying of the Trees : The Pandemic in America's Forests - by Charles Little. A good introduction to the effects of acid rain and exotic pests on the Blacks and other mountains.

An Appalachian Tragedy : Air Pollution and Tree Death in the Eastern Forests of North America - edited by Harvard Ayers and Charles Little. Photos by Jenny Hager. A disturbing and provocative book. Spectacular photography.

Highroad Guide to the North Carolina Mountains - by Lynda McDaniel. Rated 5 stars by Amazon reviewers.

North Carolina Hiking Trails - by Allen de Hart. Comprehensive. Covers 968 trails. My favorite.

Handcrafted in the Blue Ridge: Discovering the Crafts, Artisans, and Studios of Western North Carolina

Hiking North Carolina's Mountains-To-Sea Trail - by the dean of North Carolina hiking, Allen de Hart.

Hiking North Carolina (Falcon Guide) - by Randy Johnson. Covers fewer trails than de Hart's book, but covers them in more detail; maps and photos included.

50 Hikes in the Mountains of North Carolina - by Robert L. Williams. Describes 50 hikes in detail.

The Best Hikes of Pisgah National Forest - by C. Franklin, others. Rated 5 stars by Amazon reviewers.

Exploring North Carolina's Natural Areas: Parks, Nature Preserves, and Hiking Trails - edited by Dirk Frankenberger. New. According to Amazon, #1 in Charlotte and # 4 in Chapel Hill (Aug. 2000.)

Newcomb's Wildflower Guide - The best field guide. My copy is only two years old, but already dogeared.

Wildflowers of the Southern Mountains Belongs on the bookshelf, not in the backpack. With over 600 color plates, this is an excellent keep-at-home companion to Newcomb's guide.

Eastern Trees (Peterson Field Guides)

A Field Guide to Reptiles & Amphibians (Peterson Field Guides)

A Field Guide to the Birds (Peterson Field Guides

Music of the Southern Appalachians

O Brother, Where Art Thou? - Soundtrack from the movie. An incredible collection of old time music. This is REAL country music. It is everything that today's slick new Nashville pop isn't. Featuring Norman Blake, Emmy Lou Harris, Gillian Welch, Allison Kraus, John Hartford, The Stanley Brothers, and more. An astonishing collection! Rated five stars by Amazon reviewers.

Salt Sea Bound - Polecat Creek. First release (March 2002) from this triad-based group. Original music in the Old Time tradition. Outstanding song writing and beautiful harmonies. My favorite album of 2002.

Ballads, Banjo Tunes, And Sacred Songs of Western North Carolina - by Bascom Lamar Lunsford. A Smithsonian Folkways CD, rated five stars by Amazon reviewers.

Clarence Ashley And Doc Watson: The Original Folkways Recordings, 1960-1962 - Doc is a NC legend and national treasure. This is one of his earliest recordings. A Smithsonian Folkways 2-CD Set. Rated five stars by Amazon reviewers.

The High Lonesome Sound - by Roscoe Holcomb. One of the greatest of the old-time banjo players, Holcomb did almost all of his playing at Holiness Church services and square dances. A Smithsonian Folkways recording. Rated five stars by Amazon reviewers.

Music From The Lost Provinces: Old-Time-Stringbands From Ashe County, North Carolina & Vicinity 1927-1931 Various artists. A classic of the old-time genre. Rated four stars by Amazon reviewers.

The Legacy Of Tommy Jarrell, Vol. 1: 1: Sail Away Ladies - Tommy Jarrell was one of the greatest old-time fiddlers. Rated five stars by Amazon reviewers.

Ways That are Dark - by Daniel Gore, with Peter Rowan, Tim O'Brien, Jack Lawrence, and others. A musical companion to Horace Kephart's classic book, Our Southern Highlanders .



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All images and text copyright © Paul Holcomb 1998-2002.


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